High performance, one-step, non-toxic wood stain-sealer

Vermont Natural Coatings Exterior Penetrating Stain with PolyWhey technology is a low-odor, durable, element-repelling, semi-transparent stain and topcoat for the outside of raised garden beds, wood siding, decks, fences, furniture, and other outdoor wood surfaces. It may be used on pressure-treated and weathered wood (pressure treated wood should sit for a minimum of 6 mo to a year and lightly sanded before application).

NOTE: Image swatches on our website are on Pine. If you have a different wood species, the appearance may be different. Please order a sample to confirm the actual appearance on your wood.

The natural strength of whey protein makes Vermont Natural Coatings Exterior Penetrating Stain a protective, environmentally safe finish for all exterior wood applications. It is non-toxic, has low odor and contains no biocides, fungicides or anti-microbial agents. The pigments act as a natural UV inhibitor.

By using recycled whey protein, Vermont Natural Coatings eliminates the need for heavy metal driers, toxic co-binders and carcinogenic solvents typically found in wood finishes. The whey used in this product is a natural by-product of the cheese-making process used by Vermont farmers. It surpasses every national, regional, state and county air quality regulation.

NOTE 2: This product requires a wet on damp two-three coat application or until the finish produces a slight sheen. This means apply the second or third coat while still damp, but BEFORE the previous coat dries. If you wait too long and the first coat dries, you will not be able to apply the second coat—it will just bead up. How long you wait in between coats depends heavily on temperature, humidity and wind conditions. If it's windy and >80 degrees it will dry in a few minutes so you will need to work faster and in smaller areas 3' x 3' at a time before moving to the next section. Best practices require application in shade and during cooler part of the day. Cooler damp conditions mean it will dry more slowly and you will have more time in between coats.

NOTE 3: Not recommended for use over super dense woods such as Teak, Ipe or Garapa/Brazilian Ash. Also, once treated, no other sealers or paint can be applied unless the stain has either worn off or is sanded off.

NOTE 4: It's the pigments in the different colors that block UV rays and protect the wood much longer. Using the Caspian Clear will not hold up as long.

NOTE 5: Can be applied over oil-based stain or water-based finishes as long as they are lightly sanded first. The Exterior Penetrating stain NEEDS to be able to penetrate the wood, which it can do IF an old finish has been sanded, but cannot if the film build of the original finish remains.

Apply with brush, paint pad, or spray. Under normal conditions treated wood will be fully cured in 48 hours. One gallon will cover approximately 200 sq. ft on rough sawn-400 sq. ft. on smooth wood depending on porosity of wood. Colors include: Caspian Clear, Autumn Red, Lakeside Cedar, Acorn Brown, Sterling Gray, Royal Cherry, Balsam Green, Bison Brown, Brackish Brown, Golden Cedar, Coastal Gray and Granite Gray.

Tips for Staining Pine and Other Softwoods

Problem: Stain looks blotchy and does not absorb evenly.

Cause #1: Mill glaze (new pine) that feels and looks smooth but is difficult for stains to penetrate.

Cause #2: Dirty or cleaned with a solution that is high or low pH.

Cause #3: Previous stains have worn off in high traffic areas but not others.

Cause #4: Sanding with one grit of sandpaper and a different grit somewhere else.

Solution: Lightly sand with 100-150 grit evenly to remove the glaze or stains and open the pores.

Problem: Pressure Treated Pine will not take stain

Cause #1: Pressure treatments are still fresh which prevents stains from penetration or adhering to the wood.

Solution: Allow pine 6 months to one year to weather or season with nothing on them before attempting to stain or paint.

Problem: Previous stain or paint is peeling/flaking off

Cause #1: Surface was not primed properly

Cause #2 : The surface paint or stain was applied to was dirty.

Cause #3: The underside/backside of the wood was not sealed and moisture migrates up through the surface.

Solution: Always clean, sand and prime new wood before painting and seal the backside if possible.

Problem: Stain is wearing off or fading too quickly.

Cause #1: Clear coatings lack UV protection and gray in 1-2 years.

Cause #2: Pigmented stains were not applied heavy enough or with the correct number of coats.

Cause #3: Stain is in direct Southern sun all day with no protection or has excessive moisture on it.

Solution: Pigmented stains work best if applied over freshly sanded wood. They will hold up longer if maintained every few years rather than allowing them to grey out. Northern and Eastern exposures require less maintenance but all colors will eventually fade.

Problem: Lap marks, steaking and variations in color

Cause #1 Water-based stains dry super fast making it hard to keep a wet edge.

Cause #2 Uneven sanding will allow more pigment to absorb in rougher grain.

Solution: Lightly mist or wipe down the surface of the wood with damp rag before staining to help even out the stain and slow down the dry time.

Solution: Finish off with the same grit sandpaper evenly throughout the project.

Solution: Do not exceed 120-150 grit or it will close the pores.