Many flooring retailers now claim they carry “green” flooring, however the definition of “green” has become so overused that it’s impossible for the average consumer to differentiate between products. Some flooring only has recyclced content or is compliant with government standards; others are made with safe ingredients, third party certified, sustainably harvested and manufacturered in a facility that is diminishing its carbon footprint and pays fair wages. Unfortunately, there are many shades of green, and the more you understand all aspects of flooring — from harvesting and manufacturing to distribution and installation to recycling and disposal— the better you’ll be able to distinguish between green and greenwashing.
Mistake #1: Assume a floor is green because the salesperson or website told you soMany salespeople will tell you their products are green or CARB2 compliant but that's about all they tell you. It sounds good, but what does it really mean?
One of the primary factors that make any product green is its effect on indoor air quality (IAQ). What's considered an “acceptable” IAQ level varies greatly from country to country and from state to state. In the US, the highest, i.e. strictest IAQ levels, set the standard for the emissions of urea formaldehyde, a proven carcinogen. These rules are contained in CARB2 2014 codes (California Resource Board) Airborne Toxic Control Measure (ATCM).
The federal government, under the EPA Toxic Substance Control Act (TSCA Title VI), has incorporated these standards (with a few exceptions) into their policy for three types of composite wood panels: hardwood plywood, particle board and medium density fiberboard (MDF). Compliance by manufacturers must be verified by a CARB-approved third-party certifier. The label on the box must include the name of the manufacturer, production date and compliance level (CARB Phase 2 or no added formaldehyde (NAF) or ultra low emission formaldehyde ULEF).
Note: CARB2 and EPA TSCA TItle VI are primarily concerned with formaldehyde emissions. They do not address other VOCS, SVOCS (semi-volatile organic compounds), de-regulated VOCs, cancer causing chemicals, pesticides, or other known or potentially hazardous chemicals. Therefore, when a retailer says they are CARB2 compliant, that's a good starting point, but certainly not enough to call it non-toxic and safe. Read this: Does EPA regulate volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in household products (https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/does-epa-regulate-volatile-organic-compounds-vocs-household-products)
Also, the emission standard for urea formaldehyde in composite wood flooring governed by CARB2 and the EPA TSCA Title VI expressed in parts per million. Composite wood flooring (aka engineered flooring) often has a top layer made of hardwood, bamboo, cork, linoleum or vinyl but they also contains a middle layer made of different types of wood. CARB2 allows for different levels of formaldehyde emissions such as: is .05 parts per million for plywood,.09 ppm for particle board, .11 ppm for MDF, and.13 ppm for thin MDF.
Tip: Questions you need to ask the salesperson: What is level of urea formaldehyde emissions in the adhesives and finishes? Can you prove it? Are there any third party certifications? There should be documentation to verify the authenticity of any claims being made.
When we began to sell bamboo flooring many years ago, we were told it was safe and had no off-gassing of toxic ingredients. “Non-toxic, non-toxic, Mr. Hirshberg“, the manufacturer said. Back in 1999 there were no certifications and therefore no way to prove this statement to be accurate. During the first year some very sensitive customers began complaining about off-gassing. The only way to find out the truth was to visit the factory in China and see how it was really made. Our distributor was traveling nearby so I asked him to visit the factory and stick his head in the 55-gallon glue drum and report back. When he returned, he said he had almost fainted; so I terminated my relationship and started looking for a company that could confirm in writing that their products were safe and third-party certified. This was our first wake-up call; one that forced us to begin our own testing.
Today, things are different from 1999 but greenwashing continues to fool many consumers who don't research carefully.
In sum: be sure to insist on .01 ppm or lower formaldehyde and make certain that this has been independently validated by third party testing. If you want the safest products, you have to look beyond CARB2 as reduced formaldehyde is good but not enough to guarantee there are no other hazardous emissions. It's just like non-GMO; while this is good, it does not guarantee there are no pesticides in your food. Always test samples for your personal tolerance. Be sure to smell a sample before you buy it, and smell it again when the product arrives. But there is much more to green flooring as this primer will uncover.
Mistake #2: Assume a floor is sustainably harvested because it’s certifiedSustainably harvested wood, bamboo and cork products are now being certified through several organizations, the best of which is the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC). The Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC) is also popular for small forest owners. (Linoleum, vinyl and laminate are not made of wood and therefore are not FSC certified.)
FSC is the only certification system that enjoys the support of environmental groups worldwide. Compliance with FSC standards ensures:
- conservation of biological diversity, water resources and fragile ecosystems
- selective harvesting of old growth trees
- fair wages for workers
- support for indigenous peoples rights
- energy efficient manufacturing and re-use or recycling of waste
- chain of custody (COC) guarantees tracking of wood from the forest all the way down to the retailer
Why is FSC certification important? Because without it, you don’t know what you’re really buying. It’s estimated that more than 50% of all imported lumber is illegally logged, i.e. destroying forests through clear cutting and removing old growth trees. By insisting on FSC certification, you’ll make a pro-environmental choice that encourages loggers through responsible forestry practices.
The FSC logo has become the gold standard for the US Green Building Council‘s LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) projects because its environmental, economic and social principles are enforced worldwide and because it has established a reliable network of independent certification. As such, the FSC logo is an important indicator of sustainably harvested flooring products. 100% FSC means the entire floor is certified. FSC Mixed Sources means that part of the floor (usually the top of the plank) is made of certified wood. Some companies are fooling customers by using FSC for the bottom or middle layer and using non-FSC for the top layer.
Tip: Unfortunately, the FSC logo is being abused by companies that want customers to think ALL their products are certified — when, in fact, only one or a few may be certified. This is “greenwashing". So, when you wish to buy an FSC product, the FSC trademarked logo must appear on the actual box you buy and it must appear on the line item of the receipt with the COC# (Chain of Custody Number) of the vendor or manufacturer. Don’t be fooled; just because a manufacturer says it is FSC certified does not mean all of its products are equally certified. The FSC has more information about COCs.
There are five main categories of floors and there may be more than one right floor for your application. Before you start shopping, pay careful attention to the individual costs associated with each category as it will make a huge difference in the final outcome. Just because a floor cost $4.50/SF doesn’t mean the final cost will be $4.50/SF.
| | SOLID
(Unfinished) | SOLID
(Prefinished) | ENGINEERED | TILE | SHEET | CARPET |
|---|
| Unfinished or Prefinished | Unfinished | Prefinished | Prefinished | - | - | Wall to wall |
| Species | Softwood, Hardwood, Exotics, Reclaimed | Softwood, Hardwood, Exotics, Reclaimed | Softwood, Hardwood, Cork, Linoleum, Marmoleum, Vinyl, Exotics, Reclaimed | Ceramic, Porcelain, Stone | Linoleum, Marmoleum, Vinyl | Wool, Nylon, Polypropylene, Acrylic |
| Installation | Nail down, glued down | Nail down, glued down | Nail down, glue down, floated | Thinset or mastic | Glue down | Tack strip, mastic |
| Price Range / SF | $3 to $10 | $5 to $15 | $3 to $12 | $1.50 to $10 | $2 to $6 | $2 to $15 |
| Installation Cost/SF | $5 to $8 | $3 to $6 | $3 to $6 | $4 to $10 | $2 to $4 | $0.50 to $2.00 |
| Subfloor Requirements | perfectly flat subfloor | perfectly flat subfloor | flat within 3/16" over 6' span | perfectly flat subfloor | perfectly flat subfloor | can tolerate imperfect subfloor |
| Additional Costs | + Add $1-$3 for patching subfloor or plywood underlayment
+ Add $.25 SF for adhesive | + Add $1-$3 for patching subfloor or plywood underlayment
+ Add $.25 SF for adhesive | + $.25 to $.75 vapor barrier, underlayment
+ Add $.25 SF for adhesive (not required with Floating Installation) | + Add $1-$5 for patching subfloor or plywood underlayment
+ Add $1.00 to $3 for crack supressor, waterproofing membrane | + Add $1-$3 for patching subfloor or plywood underlayment
+ Add $.25 SF for adhesive | + Add $.40 to $1.50 padding |
When considering all the costs involved, there is more to the total than just the product and installation. Maintenance and refinishing are equally important to the overall long-term cost, as is final disposal of the product; these points are covered in point #7.
1) SOLID WOOD: made from almost every variety of hardwoods such as Maple, Oak, Hickory, Beech, Ash and Cherry to softwoods such as Birch, Walnut, Pine and Fir, and to Exotics like Brazilian Cherry, Merbau, Rosewood, Mesquite and Santos Mahogany. Hardness is indicated by the Janka Rating System which measures the force required to drive a .444 inch steel ball into the wood. SEE CHART BELOW
Janka Ratings For Different Types of Wood| Strand Woven Bamboo | 4,000-5,000 |
| Patagonian Rosewood | 3,840 |
| Brazilian Walnut (Ipe) | 3,680 |
| Bolivian Cherry | 3,650 |
| Brazilian Teak (Cumaru) | 3,540 |
| Angelim (Angelim Pedra) | 3,040 |
| Brazilian Rosewood (Tamarindo) | 3,000 |
| Brazilian Cherry (Jatoba) | 2,350 |
| Mesquite | 2,345 |
| Santos Mahogany | 2,200 |
| Hickory/Pecan | 1,820 |
| Bolivian Rosewood | 1,780 |
| African Padauk | 1,725 |
| Hard Maple | 1,450 |
| White Oak | 1,360 |
| White Ash | 1,320 |
| American Beech | 1,300 |
| Northern Red Oak | 1,290 |
| Black Walnut | 1,010 |
| Teak | 1,000 |
| Cherry (American/Black) | 950 |
| Yellow Pine | 690 |
| Douglas Fir | 660 |
Solid flooring is either jobsite sanded and finished or prefinished at the factory; it is usually nailed or glued down to a wood subfloor. The three main types of solid flooring are strip, plank and parquet which have varying thicknesses, widths and designs. Solid wood almost always has a tongue and groove edge detail. This type of flooring can be re-sanded and refinished several times depending upon the thickness. Look for 100% FSC certified, formaldehyde free and zero VOC finishes.
2) ENGINEERED: consists of multiple layers of real wood, cork or linoleum on the surface and real wood or fiberboard underneath. These planks click together or can be glued side to side. They may also be nailed down, glued down over a wood subfloor or floated over the subfloor with an underlayment.
The engineered wood can be re-sanded and refinished 1-2 times. Cork and linoleum can be refinished but not re-sanded. If there’s a high density core (HDF) make sure it contains low or no formaldehyde.
Look for 100% FSC certified wood, bamboo or cork, formaldehyde free adhesives and zero VOC finishes. These should not be confused with laminate flooring which is a plastic laminate veneer over a high density fiberboard (HDF). There is no real solid wood in a plastic laminate; it cannot be re-sanded. Also, plastic laminate may contain formaldehyde in the HDF core.
When choosing adhesives for glue down floors look for those that emit zero VOC and are isocyanate free. There are now good alternatives that are not only safer but are also virtually waterproof.
3) TILE: cork, linoleum, ceramic, porcelain, stone and carpet tile all can be made of either virgin or recycled materials, and are usually glued down with an adhesive or a thin set mortar. Make certain the adhesive or thinset is designed specifically for the product you are installing. Don't assume your contractor knows all the latest products. There are safer alternatives that perform just as good as their toxic counterparts.
4) SHEET GOODS: linoleum or vinyl come in large rolls and are usually glued down.
5) CARPETING: wall to wall carpet is typically installed with a tack strip around the perimeter of the room.
Mistake #4: Try to do it yourself without the knowledge or the toolsWhether to use a professional or do it yourself is a tough question for most people. In general, if you’re not handy with tools, have never worked with wood or you hate learning curves, you may not wish to try it. This is especially true if you have to rip up or level an existing floor. Unless you want to buy some new expensive tools and wish to take the time (read — weeks) to learn a new skill we recommend that you let a professional do it.
On the other hand, there are many DIY products and finishes designed for any high school graduate that are relatively easy, inexpensive to use and are fun. These are floating floors that click together or are glued side to side, or tiles that are glued down. Even with these products there’s a learning curve and often new tools are required. There may also be some challenging situations that are far beyond your capability like leveling a floor, undercutting door jambs and trimming doors to size.
But, if you want or need to save big (we’re talking thousands of dollars here) and love the adventure and thrill of doing things yourself, go for it! The worst thing that happens is that you wreck a few boards and have to invite your contractor friend over for dinner to help you out. It’s still worth a try. He/she may even teach you some tricks that will enable you to complete the job, and if you’re really nice, lend you some tools (but don’t ask for them as these are sacred).
Tip: Where can you find a reliable installer? It’s not easy; try your local hardware store, Chamber of Commerce, health food store bulletin board or contractor websites. Be sure to ask for references and to visit the homes of those your contractor claims he built or remodeled. See our article on the subject of How to Find the Right Constractor.
Another mistake is generalizing. Many people tend to put every bamboo or cork floor into a pigeonhole and assume each is the same. Nothing could be further from the truth. Like any product (or person for that matter) that you get to know well, there are huge differences once you know where to look and what questions to ask. Just a quick glance at the variety in prices tells you that there must be some reasons for this — and there are quite a few.
Let’s look at some typical criteria used to evaluate bamboo flooring. These affect the quality, longevity and overall price:
- harvested at maturity (5 ½ to 6 years; most bamboo floors are harvested before this time)
- harvest the right species (Moso is the best; there are 1500 others, not what the pandas eat)
- hardness rating (1100 to 5000 on the Janka scale; some are much higher than others)
- finish (3-9 coats of aluminum oxide plus scratch coats; the number of coats is not always indicative of the scratch resistance)
- VOC content overall (from zero to .5ppm; less is better)
- formaldehyde content of the adhesive (from zero to .05; CARB2 and EPA standard is .05ppm. European standard is .01, less is better)
- moisture content (8-12% is acceptable; above this can cause serious problems. Your contractor needs to check this before installation)
- warranty (from 20 to 50 years; more is better but be sure to read the fine print)
- certifications (from FSC to Greenguard + many others; industry standards are useful but they require much understanding about how each organization rates products--there is a lot of greenwashing going on and this is where it usually happens)
- price (from $2.50/SF to $7.99/SF; you get what you pay for)
You've probably read negative and positive reviews about various types of floors and it can be daunting. How can you separate the wheat from the chaff? You have to do your homework in order to know the inside story. Compare the real numbers of hardness, moisture, formaldehyde, price, warranty and certifications. Then order a sample and test it for yourself. That’s what the pros do.
Mistake #6: Refuse to read the installation instructionsIt’s embarrassing to even have to say it, but almost everyone, from homeowners to experienced contractors, fail to read the installation instructions thoroughly—if at all. This is a big issue because most problems can be avoided by simply reading the instructions provided by the manufacturer or watching the videos. While this rule applies mainly to installations, it can equally be applied to purchasing decisions. Every flooring product, from light green to dark green, has its uniqueness. Even if you’ve installed the same type of flooring, if you haven’t schooled yourself on this particular manufacturer’s requirements, the job can result in a disaster.
The classic mistake is to assume this floor is just like the others you’ve installed in a previous room or home. It’s natural to assume this, but it’s deadly not to consider the context. Not only is every floor made from different wood, bamboo, cork linoleum, vinyl etc., but the moisture content, milling and finish are different, the subfloor conditions are different, the climate in the room is different, the people and pets walking on the floor are different, the deadlines and budget are different, and so on.
Tip: Don’t assume anything. Read the instructions thoroughly. Period. If you, or your contractor, have questions, reach out to the manufacturer or retailer of the floor.
Mistake #7: Forget to research daily maintenance, refinishing and disposal costsThis point is usually given little attention because few people understand it well. It requires knowledge of subfloor preparation such as: floor leveling, moisture conditions, pH levels, adhesive application and refinishing techniques—all of which are extremely complex, highly important and require professional advice. While this information may not be easy to come by, it’s usually available from the manufacturer. Good installation instructions are an important indicator of the quality of the product, as they spell out every detail and don’t leave anything to chance.
While modern floors have excellent long lasting finishes they still need regular maintenance. How your floor is finished will make a big difference on how it is maintained and re-finished. In the old days floors were re-sanded and refinished every 5-10 years. Modern finishes are so durable they rarely need refinishing. And that's why the warranties are much longer now.
Most flooring manufacturers today offer 25-year residential warranties against normal wear and tear. These finishes require only some mild cleaners on a soft cloth to remove most routine dirt. Both floating and solid wood can be re-sanded and refinished 1-3 times. Cork can also be refinished but is rarely re-sanded. Although linoleum does not have a topical coating it can be re-finished with specialty sealers or wax.
| | SOLID
(Unfinished) | SOLID
(Prefinished) | ENGINEERED | TILE, Hard | TILE, Resilient | SHEET | CARPET |
|---|
| Unfinished or Prefinished | Unfinished | Prefinished | Prefinished | - | - | - | Wall to wall |
| Species | Softwood, Hardwood, Exotics, Reclaimed | Softwood, Hardwood, Exotics, Reclaimed | Softwood, Hardwood, Cork, Linoleum, Marmoleum, Vinyl, Exotics, Reclaimed | Ceramic, Porcelain, Stone | Linoleum, Marmoleum, Vinyl | Linoleum, Marmoleum, Vinyl | Wool, Nylon, Polypropylene, Acrylic |
| Regular Maintenence | Weekly sweep, damp mop | Weekly sweep, damp mop | Weekly sweep, damp mop | Weekly sweep, damp mop | Weekly sweep, damp mop | Weekly sweep, damp mop | Weekly vacuum, yearly shampoo |
| Maintenence Costs | $50/year | $50/year | $50/year | $50/year | $50/year | $50/year | $150/year |
| Refinish Costs | 3 sandings, apx.$3-$5/SF each time | 3 sandings, apx.$3-$5/SF each time | 0-3 sandings, depending on wear layer thickness, apx.$3-$5/SF each time | none, regrouting, apx.$3-5 SF | - | buffing, apx. $2-$3/SF | - |
| Useful Life | 30-50 yrs | 30-50 yrs | 15-30 yrs | 30-50 yrs | 10-40 yrs | 10-40 yrs | 5-30 yrs |
| Disposal | Biodegradable, recycle, donate | Biodegradable, recycle, donate | Biodegradable, recycle, donate | Biodegradable, recycle | Linoleum/marmoleum is biodegradable, vinyl is not and must go to a landfill | Linoleum/marmoleum is biodegradable, vinyl is not and must go to a landfill | Wool is biodegradable, wool lasts 3x longer than synthetics |
What type of finish should you use? Depending on the type of traffic in your home, after some time you may need to recoat the surface with a polyurethane finish. Most polyurethanes are oil based and contain solvents that off-gas for weeks or longer. There are some newer non-toxic polyurethanes on the market such as AFM Safecoat Polyureseal BP and Vermont Natural Coatings Polywhey Floor Finish which do not contain solvents and do not off-gas. There are also eco-friendly carnauba and bees waxes that work well and are easier to apply, however, they do require more maintenance.
Obviously, it’s more cost effective and environmentally smart to have a floor that lasts a long time versus one that has to be removed in 3-5 years. Strand woven bamboo, hardwood, cork and linoleum should all last 30-50 years or longer if they are properly installed, maintained and refinished periodically. Keep this in mind when choosing a floor for your kid’s room or future occupants; a floor that can be refinished several times will outlive some of the less expensive alternatives that only have paper thin veneers.
Tip: Before you purchase a floor, be sure to ask the salesperson what specific products are recommended to recoat it, then double check this answer with the manufacturer. Also, bear in mind, once you refinish a floor, the manufacturers warranty for the wear layer is usually no longer valid. The structural warranty may, however, still be in effect.
Finally, if you wish to think sustainably about any product in your home, then you must consider the total life cycle of the product from cradle to grave. A higher view is to consider the life cycle from cradle to cradle. This is the way we can create a circular economy. When solid wood or engineered floors wear out they can be refinished. Linoleum and cork can be refinished too. Ceramic, porcelain and stone tiles last almost forever. Linoleum is natural and biodegradable. Carpet has a much shorter life but wool is biodegradable and can be recycled too. For each of these there is a cost to us and a cost to the environment. Many manufacturers are now including these calculations in their life cycle assessments. Some synthetic carpet manufacturers will now pick up your old carpet and recycle it so it stays out of the landfill.
While this discussion has covered the basic principles of how to buy a green floor, there are always special considerations and circumstances that warrant unique approaches. Don’t be afraid to explore some other options and don’t be afraid to ask questions and test products for yourself. If you find a new product or method, let us know so others can benefit.
As always, feel free to call 800.405.0222 if we can be of further assistance.
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Copyright © 2022 Joel Hirshberg All rights reserved.
Sources: from World Health Organization and others.