A 2-part non-toxic, zero VOC, natural oil wood finish for interior woodwork

Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C, made in Belgium, is the only interior all-natural wood sealer with no toxic ingredients. It is also food contact compliant which means it can be used on wood that comes in contact with food such as countertops, cutting boards, and tabletops. Unlike most oils that are laced with toxic solvents, Rubio Monocoat is plant-based, 100% VOC-FREE and has virtually no odor once dry.

Monocoat means one coat: it protects and colors wood in a single coat which saves time and money. Oil Plus 2C is a revolutionary technology that adheres to the top layer of microns of wood through molecular bonding. As a result it can cover approximately 400 SF per liter which is far more than most oil or water-based stains and finishes (coverage can vary based on the type of wood this is applied to, see "Coverage" below). No second coat is required nor will the finished wood accept a second coat.

Swatches are shown Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C applied on White Oak.

Note: This is for interior use only. For exterior use we recommend Rubio Hybrid Wood Protector.

Note2: Although Rubio Monocoat is a one coat system, porous wood such as: pine, fir, American walnut, American cherry may require a second light coat 24-36 hours after the initial application. For this you would use a maroon pad to open up the surface, lightly apply the second coat, buff with white pad and remove any excess with a towel.

The 2C stands for two component. The A part is the oil and the B part (included in this kit) is the accelerator which helps the oil dry quickly. Walk on your floor in 24 hours, full move-in after 48 hours; cures fully in 7 days. (Oil Plus can also be applied without the accelerator if time allows; allow 21 days for complete cure.)

This unique oil/wax finish is highly durable and water resistant which makes it suitable for new or old wood furniture, floors, cabinets, doors, windows, trim, etc. It's also ideal as a renovation and maintenance oil on previously oiled surfaces. All Monocoat finishes are easily maintained, and provide a subtle luster that reveals and complements, rather than covers, the natural grain and patina of the wood.

Monocoat natural oil finish bonding technology allows local touch-up of damaged areas or scratches because only the free wood fibers will take the touch-up coating--the finished areas next to the scratch will not accept the new Monocoat. After 10 minutes, simply wipe away excess oil. There is no overlapping or buildup along the edges of the scratch.

Available in clear finish and 40 colors which are available in small samples for personal testing. Rubio Monocoat is manufactured in Belgium by one of the largest manufacturers of oil in Europe since 1964.

Coverage

Below are usage/coverage rates for RMC OilPlus2C.

These are estimates only!

Hardwoods

• Pure Oil – 1.3 Liter / 500-600 SF; 350ml / 135-160 SF; 100ML / 40-45 SF
• Color Oil – 1.3 Liter / 300-450 SF; 350ml / 80-120 SF; 100ML / 20-35 SF

Softwoods

• Pure Oil – 1.3 Liter / 450-550 SF; 350ml / 120-150 SF; 100ML / 35-40 SF
• Color Oil – 1.3 Liter / 250-400 SF; 350ml / 60-100 SF; 100ML / 15-30 SF

Douglas Fir and Reclaimed Woods

• Pure Oil – 1.3 Liter / 250-300 SF; 350ml /65-80 SF; 100ML / 18-20 SF
• Color Oil – 1.3 Liter / 200-250 SF; 350ml / 55-65 SF; 100ML / 15-18 SF

Spread rates depend on many factors including:

• color selected--ratio of oil to pigment. More pigment = lower spread rate.
• wood species--denser/harder wood absorbs less and gets a better spread rate than porous wood which absorb more oil
• sandpaper used--coarse grit (40, 60, 80) yields lower spread rates than 100-120 grit
• applicator used--nylon pads absorb least, cotton cloth wastes most
• textured or water-popped wood will yield lower spread rates than smooth finished wood
• We recommend using the lower numbers in the range. It is better to have extra product on hand than to run out just short of completing a project.

Videos

Tips for Staining Pine and Other Softwoods

Problem: Stain looks blotchy and does not absorb evenly.

Cause #1: Mill glaze (new pine) that feels and looks smooth but is difficult for stains to penetrate.

Cause #2: Dirty or cleaned with a solution that is high or low pH.

Cause #3: Previous stains have worn off in high traffic areas but not others.

Cause #4: Sanding with one grit of sandpaper and a different grit somewhere else.

Solution: Lightly sand with 100-150 grit evenly to remove the glaze or stains and open the pores.

Problem: Pressure Treated Pine will not take stain

Cause #1: Pressure treatments are still fresh which prevents stains from penetration or adhering to the wood.

Solution: Allow pine 6 months to one year to weather or season with nothing on them before attempting to stain or paint.

Problem: Previous stain or paint is peeling/flaking off

Cause #1: Surface was not primed properly

Cause #2 : The surface paint or stain was applied to was dirty.

Cause #3: The underside/backside of the wood was not sealed and moisture migrates up through the surface.

Solution: Always clean, sand and prime new wood before painting and seal the backside if possible.

Problem: Stain is wearing off or fading too quickly.

Cause #1: Clear coatings lack UV protection and gray in 1-2 years.

Cause #2: Pigmented stains were not applied heavy enough or with the correct number of coats.

Cause #3: Stain is in direct Southern sun all day with no protection or has excessive moisture on it.

Solution: Pigmented stains work best if applied over freshly sanded wood. They will hold up longer if maintained every few years rather than allowing them to grey out. Northern and Eastern exposures require less maintenance but all colors will eventually fade.

Problem: Lap marks, steaking and variations in color

Cause #1 Water-based stains dry super fast making it hard to keep a wet edge.

Cause #2 Uneven sanding will allow more pigment to absorb in rougher grain.

Solution: Lightly mist or wipe down the surface of the wood with damp rag before staining to help even out the stain and slow down the dry time.

Solution: Finish off with the same grit sandpaper evenly throughout the project.

Solution: Do not exceed 120-150 grit or it will close the pores.

This item description was written by Joel Hirshberg